Ford Roadsters Hot Rod Decisions

Looks like somebody threw in the towel about halfway through this ’30 Model A roadster buildup, which would probably be a good entry-level car for a first-time rodder.

The elegant lines of a fendered ’33 make it more desirable and valuable, but also a more difficult car to build. It would be an ambitious project for a beginner.

Packing a Chevy small-block (or any overhead-valve V-8) where Henry never intended one is a tough squeeze on any early Ford, but especially on a pre- flathead-era Model A. Note the amount the firewall had to be recessed.

You’ve finally decided to build your first hot rod. Chances are good that it’s going to be an early Ford—probably a roadster. But will it be a ’28-’31 Model A, a ’32, or a ’33-’34? All are popular. All are cool. All are supported by the aftermarket. And all are different enough from each other that, unless you have strong preferences one way or another, they may leave you scratching your head and trying to figure out which is right for you.

Are there verifiable things that make one car a better choice than the others? We called several of the bazillions of companies out there manufacturing early Ford bodies and asked them about the pros and cons of each of * these three styles. We also got the opinion of rod builder Roy Brizio on the subject. Finally, we went to the L.A. Roadster Show to get the candid opinions of the real experts—the rodders who actually build and drive these cars.

This story contains no secret formula for figuring out what car you should build, but it does contain some wise words from pros and enthusiasts that can help you figure it out for yourself.

Size

This was the first issue most people mentioned when comparing these three bodies—’28-’29s are the smallest and ’33-’34s are the largest. Some rodders like the coziness of the Model A, and think its smaller size makes it easier to work on. But for most, the lack of room in the cockpit is a drawback. Dave Gossett at Heritage A&F advises his customers to spend time sitting in the car of their dreams before making a decision to buy it. As he put it, “A 300-pound guy who’s six-foot-four had better sit in one first or he might end up looking like Herman Munster with his head sticking up above the windshield.” For Roy Brizio, size is one of the reasons the Model A isn’t as desirable as ’32s, ’33s, and ’34s. Chuck Barr of Steve’s Auto Restoration pointed out that increased wheelbase of a ’33-’34 over a ’32 improves the ride and ergonomics.

Roominess in the engine compartment is another thing to consider. As with the passenger compartment, Model As are the smallest, while ’33-’34s have the most room, though none of these early Fords were originally built to accommodate a modern small-block overhead V-8. You might be able to shoehorn a Mouse motor into the stock engine compartment of a ’32 or ’33-’34, but a Model A will require some firewall recessing. Aftermarket bodies are generally built with recessed firewalls, but things are still tight, especially when you start adding air conditioning, headers, and other bulky parts. Recessing the firewall isn’t an absolute solution, however, as it further reduces legroom in the cockpit, although Kenny Gollahon at Brookville has * found that most of the reduction in cockpit area is in the center of the firewall, where it affects passengers the least. Replacing the stock floor configuration with a flat floor and using custom or aftermarket seats, such as those from Glide Engineering, repositions the driver farther back and lower, adding at least 6 inches of legroom.

Another consideration when dropping a V-8 into a Model A is the frame sturdiness. One of the original reasons rodders began building As on Deuce rails, besides improved looks, was the fact that the Model A frames weren’t rigid enough to handle the increased power. We’ve often heard old-timers refer to Model A–framed rods as “flexible fliers.” It’s not a compliment.

Budget

Cost was the second most prevalent issue raised when comparing As, Deuces, and ’33-34s. The opinions we got in the financial department were sometimes conflicting, however. Most of the hobbyists we spoke to consider Model As a far more economical choice than ’32s or ’33s and ’34s. However, many manufacturers had a broader view that included entire cost, perceived value, and resale value, leading them to a different conclusion.

Model As can be picked up at swap meets and from the classifieds more cheaply than Deuces and ’33-’34s. Availability of parts, such as grille shells, chassis components, and trim pieces, is higher for Model As and cost is generally lower than for later years. A Model A perimeter frame is roughly a third the cost of a Deuce perimeter frame (though far less desirable). For these reasons, Model As are frequently recommended as good hot rod projects for less-experienced builders. A ’30-31 Model A on ’32 rails with a ’32 grille is a poor-man’s alternative to building a Deuce. When it comes to non-roadster bodies (such as coupes), the price advantage of a Model A can be even greater—and they can make great hot rods.

While many parts will be cheaper for a Model A, other parts won’t be. Disc brakes, tires and wheels, upholstery, engines and transmissions, and other components will cost the same whether they are for a ’29 A or a ’34. The same is true for body and paint work.

Start talking about resale value and the scale begins to tip away from Model As. Check the classifieds and compare the price of As to similar-condition ’34s. The earlier cars are hovering in the teens with the later cars going for $10,000 or more above that. You can build an A for a lot less money, but in the end you won’t own a car as valuable and probably won’t get as much for it when you decide to * sell. If you are building a rod out of love for a particular car and don’t plan on selling it, this won’t matter to you. Otherwise, paying the higher price up front for a ’32 or a ’33-’34 and essentially the same price for drivetrain components will net you a car with a significantly higher resale value. Which is why—as several manufacturers pointed out—pros don’t typically build Model As for resale.

Degree of Difficulty

The level of skill required to build a particular body is just as important as budget and size. Being able to afford the project and being able to fit in the finished car won’t mean much if you can’t build the thing. One reason Model As are good projects for first-timers is their lower degree of difficulty. A lot of this has to do with availabilty of parts, but some of it has to do with engineering. Many pros and enthusiasts consider Model As and ’32s easier to build than ’33-’34s, particularly as fendered cars. The more elaborate lines and greater number of intricate body pieces necessary when building a fendered ’33-34 can torture a first-time hobbyist attempting to align hood panels, fenders, and running boards. This is especially true if some parts are original and some are repro pieces from manufacturers who may or may not have an appreciation for original dimensions.

Conclusion

If selecting the right early Ford could be reduced to a formula, the factors would be your wallet, your skill level, your intentions for the car, your measurements, and your heart. That last component hasn’t been discussed much because it’s the most personal, but it may also be the most important. If choosing a car was only about practicality, you might as well buy a new Ford Focus. But rodding is about passion, so don’t forget to inject as much as you can into your decision. Don’t let these various pros and cons persuade you to build a rod you don’t really want. Instead, use them to figure out how to build a rod you’ll really love.

Thanks to the following industry people for their help: Chuck Barr at Steve’s Auto Restoration; Kenny Gollahon at Brookville Roadster; Dave Gossett at Heritage A&F; Jim McCain at Rod Bods; Dick Spadaro at Dick Spadaro Reproductions; Karl Wescott at Wescott’s Auto Restyling; and Roy Brizio at Brizio Street Rods.